Kimono Scarf

This is what I've been doing to amuse myself lately. It's a scarf in a pattern adapted from Folk Shawls. It's the pattern for the Kimono shawl, an easy 10+1 repeat pattern with garter edges.

I'm knitting it on US 7 needles with a nice Peruvian merino by a company called Mirasol. The yarn is called Hacho and the colorway is #306. It has a nice, tight twist. One 50g ball yielded 12" in length (including the border), so I anticipate having a scarf that is 60" long when I'm done as I have only 5 balls of this wonderful wool. I'm not sure how wide it will be when I block it out, but I think it will be near to 12".

And a bag to put it in . . .

My sister Shari was kind enough to send to me a gift card to String of Purls for my birthday. I used it to purchase this magnificent bag which holds all of the projects posted today, plus some knitting books, pens, etc. the bag is some sort of plastic fabric, so it is good for the beach. I like it because it zips up on top and will keep all of my projects protected from the more unsavory elements of nature.

I embellished it with a cool tag from Village Stationery. I feel trés chic, let me tell you!

Rescue Pullover in Progress

This isn't perhaps the best photo because it shows the yarn as brighter than it really is. This is the failed Mardi Gras skeins overdyed in Indigo and the start of an aran-style pullover.

Manos del Uruguay Scarf

This is done with two skeins of the silk and wool blend of Manos del Uruguay yarn, one in a solid blue-grey and the other in a variegated that included the same blue-grey color. On a US 7 needle, I cast on an uneven number of stitches and knit back and forth as follows:

Row 1 (solid color): *K1, Sl 1 with yarn in front* across, end K1. Turn work.

Row 2 (solid color): Purl all sts. Turn work.

Row 3 (variegated color): *K1, Sl 1 with yarn in front* across, end K1. Turn work.

Row 4 (variegated color): Knit all sts. Turn work.

The left image shows the side with Rows 1 and 3, the right image shows the side with Rows 2 and 4. Frankly, I like the right image best!

Ab-Fab In Progress

Above: Detail. Below: A look at the whole thing in progress. There are, I think, 10 different yarns, each a different color, and about five different textures. Three of the yarns are mohair, two are a kind of shiny thick-and-thin boucclé, one is a flat knit ribbon, one is a fluffy cotton-ish chenille, and one is a regular yarn in bulky weight. It's knit on US 11 needles in a feather-and-fan pattern. The kit comes in a great variety of color sets and the instructions include six different ways to knit or crochet it into a throw (or afghan, or lap blanket -- whatever you want to call it).

More Done, and Dyeing Prep

I finished the Manos del Uruguay scarf on Thursday night, and I've been making progress on both the red socks for my SIL Deb and the HoofleFoofle socks. I started a hat from the leftover Manos, but I'm going to frog it and save it for a felting project or something. I do not need another project staring at me, especially with all that is glaring at me from the UFO stash.

I'm going to work on the HoofleFoofle socks until they're done, then start on Deb's socks. After that, I'm going to tackle that cardigan and finally get out from under it.

Oh, and I keep finding UFOs as I dig around into stuff. Yuck.

I've gotten a few more things for my great dyeing adventure. One is a set of measuring spoons and measuring cups that will be ONLY for dyeing. I also got another plastic tray and handily holds these items. I'm going to try out several new yarns for dyeing. I've been using the Henry's Attic Kona DK superwash, but I'm also going to dry Sidhe Sock, Cherry Tree Hill Supersock Thin (just a tiny bit thinner than regular Super Sock), and blue-faced Leicester. And I got myself a large wool winder from off of e-Bay so I can have skeins up to 72" in circumference.

Lorna (my co-conspirator) and I are going to get together and try out some color mixing with some yarn swatches to see what we come up with, and then I'm going to dye yarn until my fingers are purple.

This year . . .

I will finished one project before starting another.

But first I have to finish the projects I already have on needles:

• Socks for Marky (need to start #2)
• Socks for Deb (#1 near heel turn)
• Socks from Austermann Step yarn (#1 near the toe)
• Hoofle-Foofle Socks (#1 done; #2 started)
• Cardigan (finish sleeves and button band)
• 8-3-5 Pullover for Marky (back done; front started)
• Scarf from bulky weight Silk Road *Done • 5 Jan 08*
• Scarf from 2 strands of Manos del Uraguay *Done • 10 Jan 08*
• Socks for Alice *Done • 5 Jan 08*
• Shrug for Mary (started back panel)
• Baby Blanket for Jorge y Liliana

These are the projects already waiting for me to start on:

• Socks for Joan
• Swag Socks sample for String of Purls
• Marjaana/Hermione pullover for myself
• Scarf (non-wool) for I-Pie

Hmmm....lots of socks again this year!

FotM Socks Done!

I finished the Fire on the Mountain socks (finally!) on Saturday evening. While I was in the hospital I finished up the Chapman Springs mittens.

Here's a photo of my knitting on the mittens while in pre-op!

Waffle Socks Pattern

Here's the basics of the pattern I'm using for my waffle socks:

Materials:
1 skein Socks That Rock medium weight (from Blue Moon Fiber Arts)
1 set US 1.0 dpns or 2 circulars
markers as desired

NOTE: Directions are given for dpns (even though I worked mine on 2 circulars). If you want to see directions for working on 2 circulars, see the pattern for Dishcloth Socks.

Gauge/Tension: 8 sts = 1"

Pattern Stitch:
Rnds 1 - 3: K all sts
Rnds 4 - 6: *P2, K2*

NOTE: I prefer to work Rnds 4-6 as K1, *P2,K2* to the last 3 stitches, then end P2, K1. This makes sure that the first and last stitch on the needles is a knit stitch and therefore ensures the pattern will be balanced over the instep.


Cuff
CO 64 sts
Work 2 x 2 ribbing (K2, P2) for 12 rnds. (Make sure you work the ribbing the same way as you'll work rnds 4 - 6 of the pattern stitch.)

Leg
Rnd 13: Begin pattern stitch; work for 10 iterations (1 pattern with 9 repeats), then K all sts for 3 more rnds.

Heel Flap
With Right Side facing, work heel flap across first 32 sts as follows:

Row 1: Sl 1, *P2, Sl 2 (purlwise, with yarn in back)* to last 3 stitches, end with P2, K1. Turn work.
Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, P to the end. Turn work.

Work these 2 rows 16 times (32 rows total) so that there are 16 slipped stitches on each side of the heel flap.

Heel Turn
With Right Side facing, K 18, SSK, K1, turn work.
Next row: sl 1, P5, P2tog, P1, turn work.

Continue as follows:
Right side: sl 1, K to 1 st before the gap, SSK (one from each side of the gap), K1, turn work.
Wrong side: sl 1, P to 1 st before gap, P2tog (one from each side of the gap), P1, turn work.

NOTE: On the last two rows, you will end with SSK and P2tog (respectively). That's how it should be.

18 sts total remain of the heel flap/turn sts.

Gussett

RS facing and using Needle 1, K across the heel flap sts. Pick up 16 sts on the right side of the heel flap (one in each of the slipped stitches along the side).

Change to Needle 2 and work pattern across the 32 instep sts (K1, *P2, K2* across, end K1).

Change to Needle 3 and pick up 16 sts on the left side of the heel flap. K the first 9 of the heel flap sts.

Work Gusset as follows:

Rnd 1 (decrease round)
Needle 1 — K to 3 sts before the end, K2tog, K1
Needle 2 — work pattern as established
Needle 3 — K1, SSK, the K to end

Rnd 2 (regular round)
Needle 1 — K all sts
Needle 2 — work pattern as established
Needle 3 — K all sts

Continue working rounds 1 and 2 until there are 64 sts on all needles.

Foot
Work all as Rnd 2 (above) until sock measures 1.5" from end of your foot. If you're working rounds 4-6, end after rnd 6.

Toe Decreases:
Decrease Round (4 sts decr):
Needle 1 — K to last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1
Needle 2 — K1, SSK, K to last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1
Needle 3 — K1, SSK, K to end

Non-Decrease Round:
K all sts

Work alternating Decrease and Non-Decrease rounds until 32 sts rem, work one more Non-Decrease round, then work only Decrease rounds until 8 - 12 sts remain. Graft toe closed. Work in ends.

The Latest Stuff on Needles

I'm finishing up a second pair of socks in a pattern I've submitted to Knitty. If they take it, I'll publish a link (as I did the Quill Lace Socks). If they don't, I'll send it off to Blue Moon Fiber Arts since I knit it originally in their Sunstone colorway.

At home I've got the Blue Moon StR Fire on the Mountain yarn being worked into a pair of waffle-stitch socks. I'm doing it in sets of 3 rounds but still K2, P2 in the pattern. It comes out more like a square that way. I'll post photos when I have them.

I'm at the heel flap on DH's second sock. I worked it the other night when we were at an Indian food restaurant. Knitting and vegetable samosas! Cool!

Dishcloth Socks

Knitty didn't take this pattern, so I'm posting the photo and the pattern here for your enjoyment. These were knit from Jaeger Aqua, which was in my stash. I've also got a pair going in a different yarn (I'll have to look it up) that is thinner.

Anyway, these guys have been done for a while. It's my first pair of KFYS Sock Club socks!



SIZE
To Fit foot circumference: 7.5 – 8.5 inches

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Foot Circumference: 7.5 inches

MATERIALS
Jaeger Aqua [100% mercerized cotton; 115 yd /106 m per 50g ball]; color: Comfrey #328 (note: the color is discontinued, but there are plenty of others available); 2 skeins

1 set(s) US #3/3.25mm double-point needles
OR
2 16-inch US #3/3.25mm circular needles

GAUGE
25 sts/40 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern is worked on 2 circular needles. If you prefer to use double-point needles, be sure to divide the stitches between needles in multiples of 4. Or refer to the directions for Waffle Socks.

If you plan to increase or decrease the circumference of these socks by casting on more or fewer stitches, be sure the number of stitches you use is a multiple of 4. At the gauge listed, one 4-stitch pattern repeat is approximately 0.625 inches wide.

About 13 yd/12.5 m remain on each ball, so if you choose to substitute another yarn you’ll need about 205 yd / 200 m to make the pair as written. While there is enough of the Jaeger ball to make either the foot or the cuff a bit longer; it’s better to get a third ball of this particular yarn if you need to make a larger size.

All slipped stitches are slipped purlwise with yarn in back. This is especially important on row 3 of the heel flap.


Cuff
CO 48 sts. Place 24 sts on each needle and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist. The first and second needles of the round will be designated Needle 1 and Needle 2, respectively.

Rounds 1 and 2 (both needles): *K1, P2, K1* to the end.
Rounds 3 and 4: K all sts.

Repeat these 4 rounds for a total of 30 rows (or desired length to top of foot), ending with Round 2.

Leave the 24 sts on Needle 2 (which will be the top of the foot) to remain idle as you work the Heel Flap on the 24 sts of Needle 1.

Heel Flap
Row 1 (RS): sl 1, *P2, sl 2* repeat to last 3 sts, P2, K1. Turn work.
Row 2 (WS): sl1, P to end. Turn work.

Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 24 rows (12 slipped stitches on each side of heel flap).

Turn Heel
Rnd 1: With RS facing you, K 14, ssk, K1. Turn work.
Rnd 2: sl 1, P5, P2tog, P1. Turn work.
Rnd 3(RS): sl 1, K to last st before the gap, SSK (one from each side of the gap), K1. Turn work.
Rnd 4: sl 1, P to last st before the gap, P2tog (one from each side of the gap), P1. Turn work.

Repeat rnds 3 and 4 until all sts have been worked; 14 sts on Needle 1.

Gusset
With RS facing, k all sts on Needle 1, pick up and k 13 sts along edge of heel flap. 27 sts on Needle 1.
Using Needle 2, k all sts.
Using Needle 1, pick up and k 13 sts along remaining edge of heel flap, then k remaining sts on Needle 1.
There are 64 sts: 40 sts on Needle 1 and 24 sts on Needle 2.

Round 1: K all sts on Needle 2 (top of the foot); k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts on Needle 1, k2tog, k1.
Round 2: [K1, p2, K1] on Needle 2; k all sts on Needle 1.
Round 3: [K1, p2, k1] on Needle 2; k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts on Needle 1, k2tog, k1.
Round 4: K all sts.

Work these four rounds a total of four times.

There are 48 sts: 24 sts on each Needle.

Working sts on Needle 2 in pattern as set and sts on Needle 2 in stockinette stitch, work until foot measures 2 inches less than desired length to end of toe.

Toe
Decrease Round:
Rnd 1 (both ndls) - K1, ssk, K to last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1 (4 sts decr)
Rnd 2 (both ndls) - K all sts

Repeat rnds 1 and 2 until there are 24 total sts remaining, then repeat only rnd 1 until there are 12 sts remaining.

FINISHING
Graft opening and work in ends.